It's only about 80 miles (130km) as the crow flies from where I live but, incredibly, I've never visited. Admittedly most of those miles is in the Irish Sea, but still. Anyway Brian and I finally booked a passage on the IoM Steam packet company's, Manannan, catamaran (named, I guess from the Manx Sea God who could cast a cloak of mist around the island to hide and protect it) for us and our two bikes. Brian had arranged for a couple of rooms at a brilliant B&B he knew in the North of the island - we were all set! I've mentioned Brian before, by-the-way, he's my biking buddy and owns the YouTube Codger biker channel - mostly about KTMs, but you can see a vid of our trip (and some other stuff about fitting accessories to my Triumphs too).

Tuesday morning saw us negotiating the interminable Liverpool road works - anyone would think they were building a 10 lane highway through the city centre not just adjusting the traffic flow! Down to the docks and bikes are at the front of the queue to board. Ha! fingers up to the cages :-). Actually not many of us motorcycles and we were soon ushered (tightly) against the side rails of the first deck ready to be tied down for the crossing. Which was pretty pleasant all-in-all, taking just around two hours 45 minutes. Arriving in port, complete with proof of Covid jabs and pre-approved landing documents, we were first off (Ha! again) and soon into the grid lock which is road-worksed Douglas. Apparently they've been digging up the promenade for 2 years - maybe Liverpool isn't uniquely rubbish. Anyway, a quick run to drop of the panniers at the B&B in the North and we ready for the ride. As an aside, the IOM is so compact that it's really a quick run to anywhere.

First stop, the Point of Ayre, which is the northern most point of IOM and has a rather pictuesque lighthouse and fog horn. A little bit of off-roadery type riding and we threw pebbles into the sea. This is, of course, obligatory for any bloke. Don't know why, but it just is, it's in the rule book.

Incredibly, we could see the mainland in the distance - Scotland to the North-East and Lake District to the East ??? presumably.

Then on to Laxey - of wheel fame and more of this later. Now Brian has been here before and been slightly intimidated by the steep approach roads available to the sea-side. However, for reasons that we've not been able to fully explainable, we decided to follow a very minor road straight down a cliff into Laxey's heart. Bloody hell! Not only did it feel to be about 1in2 and just a bit wider than the bikes, but we had to cross a number of bigger roads, standing on our front wheels and peering around blind corners. We chickened out on an acute angle left turn onto one of these and bailed out into someone's drive across the way to get a run at the now bearable right turn. Sorry, but deeply heartfelt thanks to whoever owned that driveway.

I guess I should say right here and now that for a denizen of the mainland, pretty much all of the roads on the IoM are a sheer delight. They are winding (but with plenty of places to pass), often feature rapid changes in elevation (with some rather scary 'S' bends in places), mostly well surfaced, produce stupendous views every couple of miles and are almost devoid of other traffic - except in the major towns. I always tell people that the mainland British Isles are a great part of the world to tour, because if you don't like the scenery you're in, you can change it completely within 20 miles or so. The IoM has this property in spades - except things change within 5 miles at the most! A true wonderland on a motorcycle.

But still, Laxey is a lovely little seaside town - but it doesn't seem to have a fish and chip shop and we couldn't find the Tuesday mobile van. So back to Ramsay, a chip supper on the harbour wall, carefully monitored my a mangy seagull, and return to the farm. A great start to the adventure.

Wednesday started a bit greyish - perhaps Manannan didn't want us to see the island? Anyway, dry and not particularly cold, so on with the show. Great Full English breakfast with fresh fruit, coffee and toast (did you know that coffee was popular in the UK before tea?). Thank goodness the EU hadn't managed to squeeze the goodness out of this tradition before we broke free of their shackles (sorry Brian, had to get that in :-)). Then away to the Laxey wheel. This time we chickened out and took the main roads - slightly less taxing on heart and nerves, but still pretty. However, there was still a sting in the tail - the steep roughish road up to the car park with the inevitable sharp upward bend to negotiate. Whilst we were there an unlucky rider of what looked like a newish BMW managed to drop it on this bend :-( The guy manning the entrance was incredibly informative and helpful and more than happy to hold onto our helmets (and jackets if we'd wanted) whilst we visited. Top customer service!

The wheel - called 'Lady Isabella' - is the largest (72' 6" diameter) working waterwheel in the world (actually, it's broken at the moment - they're waiting for suitable timber to fix it). It was built (1854) to pump out the water from the nearby mines as the IoM hasn't got a local source of coal for steam driven pumps. One of the highlights for me (as an ex-engineer) is the way they've used a huge reciprocating beam/rod, running on wheels supported by a viaduct, to transfer power over a distance of around 100yds from the main wheel to remote pumps.

Next, the main course - the TT course in fact. Starting and finishing in Douglas, this does a 37 3/4 mile (60.7km) circuit on the island taking in towns, local roads and the fast mountain section which runs over the higher land with an elevation change from sea-level to over 1300ft (nearly 400m). The famous 'TT' (Tourist Trophy) is run over this every year (COVID years excepted). The current (2021), outright, lap record around here is held by Peter Hickman on a BMW S1000R - time:16:42.778, average speed: 135.452mph (217.989km/h). That's and AVERAGE speed over normal country roads!!!! Top speeds approach or probably exceed 200mph (330kp/h). Apparently 'TT' can also stand for Titanium Testicles. And, lest that seems rather sexist, Jenny Tinmouth did an 18:52.42, averaging 119.945mph which is way,way faster than I (and I suspect most male riders) could ever contemplate!

For the non-racing part of the year, speed limits apply - BUT the derestricted part of the course, over the mountain, is in fact really derestricted - no speed limits! [During 2020 and earlier in 2021, there was a blanket 40mph limit raised later to 60mph to help with the possibility of COVID cases swamping the hospitals. This has now been rescinded.]

What a blast! All the main corners and features are signposted, no doubt to help the racers, but a real thill for any rider to read off - I just can't believe the speeds they reach. For those of you not familiar with the TT, here's a video I made earlier - well, not really, Andy Farrell on a 600cc Kawasaki:



Also, don't forget [Codger Biker's video I mentioned earlier](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmyNrqLXP_w).

My personal record now stands at 1 hour 6 minutes and 18 seconds (no decimals here please) - that's an average speed of 33.937 mph with a top speed that was faster than the cars I overtook - but slower than 200mph.

Feeling kind of dozy now, and with the sun coming out, we drifted up the west coast roads back to the Point of Ayre, via Jurby Church which is definitely worth a visit. Couldn't go in but there is a small stained glass window with a poem and a picture of what looks like a Sunderland flying boat - I wonder what that's all about? . I just can't believe how empty these lovely backroads are - it really is biker heaven. I lay in the sun whilst Brian and Wolfgang bounced around on some pebbly tracks near the lighthouse. I made the right choice :-).

Now for some reason, Brian wanted to ride the 'Baltic Road', a gnarly greenlane from Kirk Michael eastwards over the hills. He'd tried before with his KTM 790 but was defeated, so he claims, by the weight of Ludwig. This time he was not to be denied. I really didn't want to trash my Tiger so shepherded him back to Kirk Michael and agreed to meet up there later in the Mitre pub. On my own, I returned to the west coast, bumbled around a bit and ended up (inevitably down a steep track with tight Alpine 'S' bends) at a totally deserted beach stretching to infinity in both directions. Nothing there but me, sky, sea, the beach - and a seal rolling around just off the surf line.

Finally back to the Mitre (a real bugger into a low sun, through tree induced chiaroscuro), met up with the victorious (but knackered) Brian, a couple of shandies, egg and chips and a dusk ride to the B&B. Wow!

Thus dawned the last day. Packed up and loaded, English breakfasted again it was time for an extended good-bye - the ferry leaves at around half three. We visited Ramsey for a quick look at the place Brian's dad was sent during during WWII then on to West Baldwin reservoir (I think). The most memorable aspect here was how quickly the landscape changes from high desolate moor to lush green tree encrusted grass with a mile or so. Also the sight of trees peened over the hillside by what must be fearsome winter winds!

Not being in any particular hurry and fancying getting over to the west coast again, we picked a town, 'Glenmaye', and headed for there via Crosby, Greeba, Tynwald hill (stopped here as part of an IoM pilgrimage) on the A1 then up an over the hills to Glenmaye. After this, followed the A27 and A36 into Port St Mary and hence to the Sound overlooking the Calf of Man. This is a really lovely run with some absolutely stupendous views as you come down towards the sea - very highly recommended!

The 'Sound cafe' was OK - if a little touristy and pricey - for a bit of a pit stop and a quick walk to look at the seals lazing about on the rocks. Then, back to Douglas - with a bit of a detour inland to wase time - and the ferry home.

A full day, 2 half days and 2 nights in biker heaven - what's not to like? If you've never ridden on the island and you are ever in the area I really would recommend you try it. Fabulous!